Saturday, July 19, 2008

We're Home!

Hi everyone. We made it home! Our plane landed at 6 am this morning. Dad and John were waiting for us at the airport. What a nice surprise.
The website was down the last few days since my hosting acct expired while I was away. So sorry. I wanted to add a few pics before I get a shower and go to bed (for a few days).
We could not get internet at Siem Reap so sorry about that.
Angkor Wat is magnificent! It was built in the ninth century. Not sure when it was discovered (I wrote it down somewhere) but I do remember it took 10 years to uncover. I believe it is a total of 25 acres. With Cambodia being so behind the times there is very little if any restrictions on where you can go and what you can and cannot walk through. There are etchings on practically every inch of it. Each etching has a meaning. It is truly a site to behold! I bought a book about it so I can more thoroughly grasp the magnificence of it. You may also be interested in knowing that the Angelina Jolie movie "Laura Kroft Tomb Raider" was filmed here. I never saw the movie but might just take a look.

The elephant ride was a big hit. We all did it! The elephant took us on a ride around Banyon Temple at Angkor Wat. It was so much fun!
Our trip home was exhausting to say the least. We flew from Siem Reap to Bangkok. From Bangkok on to Beijing. Once arriving in Beijing we had a 15 hour layover. I had gotten visas for China ahead of time so we were able to leave the airport for a hotel. Reviews online gave the hotel a thumbs up. I however would disagree. The hotel was the Beijing International Airport Hotel. Located just one mile from the airport I thought it would be a good bet to get back in time for our flight. That was about the only good thing. Our room stunk from cigarette smoke which made me feel as though I would be sick. At the reception area only one person spoke a tiny bit of English. We thought we might take a tour and see the sights since the Olympics begin there next month. Can you believe the receptionist did not know what a tour bus was nor did she know what sight seeing was. We were so tired we didn't need much of an excuse to just crawl into bed after a hot shower. Hil slept about 6 hours and I only slept about three. I think I was just afraid of oversleeping. Once rested up a bit we ventured out to the restaurant. Everything on the menu looked way too fishy so we opted for a small bowl of steamed rice. Boy did that get a funny look! We didn't care too much. Our bellies were kind of queezy and we just needed something down there until we got to the states. Once in LA we were thrilled to see MC DONALD'S!!!! We wasted no time scarfing down a double cheeseburger...BURP it's good to be home. By the way we saw Eric Roberts (Julia's brother) at the LA airport and he flew on our flight home. I was kind of surprised to have him in the Economy section. He must have been really desperate for a seat. We stood within earshot of him at the baggage claim and listened in while people tried to make conversation with him. Poor guy. He did seem very nice.

I'm sorry to cut this short but I really can't keep my eyes open another minute. Thank you all for your support and prayers. Please try to come out for Hilary's grad party next Sunday. Love you all!

JULIE

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Last blog... :-(

This will probably be my last blog. Lisa, Kaley, Deb, Leann and Marcie left this morning for Hong Kong. Mike is leaving to head home through Vietnam about six oçlock tonight and Sopheap and I are catching a plane at 8:20 pm. We fly to Bangkok and then onto Beijing. We have a 15 hour layover and have reserved a hotel room. Depending upon how we are feeling we may try to schedule some type of tour as the olympics start next month and there should be lots to see...or not.
We revisited Angkor Wat last night after a torrential downpour. It was much nicer since the rain really cooled things down. We each paid $20 for the day. Khmer people get in free. It was funny because I did not know I needed Sopheap's passport to show here dual citizenship page. However, Kaley and Leann were the one's questioned at every gate because Kaley looks Thai and Leanne looks Vietnamese. Sopheap looks very Khmer and they gave us not grief about not having her passport for free admission.

Angkor Wat is breathtaking. I has been there since the ninth century in habited by many kings in it's hay day. Once discovered it took ten years to uncover. I guess at some point the Indians came in and sprayed it with acid causing it to break down. Really a shame. All the walls are covered with detailed pictures each having a very special meaning. There are repeated pictures as well. One exactly the same as the one before it. I have to wonder what kinds of tools were used to make such perfectly and exact repeats.

After returning home from Angkor we went to see a Cambodian Dance show. The Absara Dancers are beautiful and so elegant. The girls really enjoyed the show.

Today we are going to bum around Siem Reap one last time, swim at the pool have something to eat and then head out. I don't know if I will be able to blog in Beijing or if I will feel like it. If not we will be anxious to see everyone when we get home. Sopheap's grad party is July 27 at 2:00 (Cambodian theme) please come. We'd love it! Take care and see you soon!

JULIE & SOPHEAP

Siem Reap

We arrived in Siem Reap yesterday after 6 hours of travel. Hilary blew cookies 45 minutes into the trip and Leann lost her lunch just when we arrived. Oh these Khmer kids!
The ride was beautiful. You cannot imagine what these people can carry on a bike or motorcycle! It is incredible. We saw a guy with two big mahogany wardrobes strapped on sideways. Each side had mirrors. We saw people with large crates of piglets. One guy had a huge dead pig laying on its back on his moto and it's legs were just flapping the the wind like nobody's business. Remarkable!
This town is much much nicer that Phnom Penh. No beggars! Very little litter unlike Phnom Penh which was covered with trash and garbage.
Last night we hit the market for a little while and then had a bite to eat. The eatery we went to was a Thai restaurant which was like a big barn with lots of lofts. They seated us at one loft which was furnished by a truck tire laying on it's side with a piece of glass on top. There were four pillows on the floor. Lisa and I looked at each other like "you've got to be kidding!" We opted for a table. There were trays that they moved on pulleys from kitchen to loft and an Apsara dancer that performed every half hour. It was great fun.

Today we visited Angkor Wat. Words cannot describe this place. It is thousands of years old and considered one of the great wonders of the world. We did not finish because the heat was unbearable. It had to be in the 90s with 99% humidity. We just could not finish. We did enjoy however a nice elephant ride about one of the smaller wats. We hope to go back later this evening to finish sightseeing and take a balloon ride overhead.

Our hotel is lovely. Internet service stinks so we are at an internet cafe for 75 cents and hour.

Tomorrow will be a lazy day. Lisa, Kaley, Leann and Deb are heading to Hong Kong for a few days the first thing in the morning. Mike is leaving later at about 6:00 pm for Ho Chi Minh and Hilary and I are leaving about 8pm for Bangkok and then Beijing. We have a 15 hours layover there so we will probably just get a hotel and hang out for a while. Not sure what kind of shape we will be in. This may be my last blog until I get home Saturday morning. Please keep us in your prayers as we complete this journey. We love you all.

Monday, July 14, 2008

The Orphanage Experience

It's Sopheap again. Just thought I'd talk about our orphanage experience. When Kaley and I arrived we tried helping unload all of the rice. We ended up only carrying one bag in, as we found that it was very heavy. While all of the men at the orphanage were unloading rice and other supplies we had brought, we heard yelling from a distance. I turned to my right and saw a whole bunch of little boys yelling in excitement and running towards us. They were so happy to see us and all of the food we brought. While supplies were brought in, they climbed on all of the rice we had stacked up inside. When we were taking pictures, one grabbed my hand and made me slap a bag of rice. Not sure why, but I did what I was told! I found out that boys are pretty much the same throughout the world. They enjoyed poking me and teasing me. One wouldn't stop kicking me and poking me in the butt. He seemed to like terrorizing me the most. Boys will be boys. While trying to get them to settle down, we fed them two bananas each. Some boys wanted more than that, but Kaley and I tried laying down the law. We also gave them animal crackers, which they thoroughly enjoyed. My mom also showed them our bubble machine which they went crazy over. After we finished playing with the boys, and after I finished tolerating much poking and kicking from them, we toured the orphanage again. There was one room that the boys wanted me to stay in with them. I was apprehensive once my mom and everyone else left me in there by myself with them, but I would have felt bad if I decided to just leave. They enjoyed me company and they liked asking me to draw things in their books for them. Every boy asked me to draw something that they would point to. So I drew it in their books, and I signed my name. Then they would color it in with their crayons. I was finally saved by one of the nannies. After more touring, we said our goodbyes. Back to the hotel for us!


--Sopheap

Last Full Day in Phnom Penh

Hello again. We had a great day! This morning we delivered food to the orphanage. Lots of rice and bananas as well as formula. The refrigerator arrived shortly after we did. It caused quite a stir.
Sopheap and Kaley enjoyed the children immensely. The girls living at the center were in class during the morning as the boys go in the afternoon. Fortunately for Sopheap she knew just how to handle all of the young boys. I have lots of pictures of handicapped children to show you. Keep in mind that both visits were during school hours so the normal children were busy with studies. These children are very well cared for considering what the nannies have to work with. It is amazing. I saw no distended bellies like I saw 16 years ago.

While at the Nutrition Center we were shown "the book." It is a record of each child that has passed through when they were born, who brought them in and where they are from. Usually that is a very confidential document, but the donations opened that door for Kaley to possibly get some information. Unfortunately there is no record of Kaley but they did say they may have missed on or two kids here and there. Had they known anyone would be back they would have been more careful. We were told that the only families that come back to find birth parents are Americans. We did find Sopheap's records which was fun for her to see.

I returned from the Nutrition Center and had a meeting with Jesse McCaul who is a missionary running a trade school program out of Pnom Penh. He said his school is not equipped to work with the deaf but there were schools available and he would get me information. While having lunch by the pool my feet started stinging. When I looked down they were covered with teeny tiny red ants. They were biting like crazy! I stuck my feet in the pool and they seem to be fine now. I was a little worried and both Sopheap and Leann got bit and have rather nasty marks. Sopheap is okay but Leann had to go see a doctor because of infection.

Lisa visited an NGO group today called Tabitha. They are kind of the Cambodian version of Habitat for Humanity. They do work in the area of Sopheap's family and may be able to help her sisters. Yoen will can Uncle Nol and give him the information as the contact has to come from them.

This afternoon we ran a few errands. Stopping at a jewelry store we purchased some cool Cambodian jewelery then picked up Yeon and his family for a big dinner out for our last night in Phnom Penh. Yoen is an incredible man. He is constantly trying to perfect his English. When he learns a new word he has a write it down for him and tell him how it is used in a sentence. He is also very curious to learn what all of our weird little phrases mean (apple of my eye..etc) and use them in a sentence. He has three boys who are so darling. All are learning english. They are amazing. Sopheap had her Ipod on and was letting them listen to it. To her surprise they sang along to Smack That by Akon and Beautiful Girl by Sean Kingston. It was hysterical! tThe whole evening was so much fun. This is the first meal I have felt brave enough to try some of their dishes and fruit.

Hilary has gone from Hilary to Sopheap. She loves the name because that is what her sister's call her as well as the workers here at the hotel. They have taken her in and taught her Khmer words and laugh as her when she tries to say or use them. She has really become a part of her country and is enjoying being among the crowd. I don't care for it because I can't spot her anymore in the crowd. (I just realized I have spelt Phnom Penh wrong this whole tripso sorry about that). Gotta run. I need to go pack as we leave for Angkor Wat in the morning. Two days there and then home. Enjoy the pics (if I can get them uploaded).

Sunday, July 13, 2008

Delivery Day

No pics from yesterday. We spent the day shopping. It was loads fun. However the market is just a mass of vendors on top of each other in a building or under overlapping umbrellas. The inside market is easily over 100 degrees with not air circulation. The isles are only a few feet wide. It was stifling. The minute you touch or show interest in anything the vendor decends upon you like a vulture. I have indeed mastered the skill of bartering. I must say I am getting quite good at it. Sopheap also is getting to be quite the little Cambodian! Last night however we found an outdoor market. It was quite lovely. Very clean. The people were dressed nicely and the vendors not too pushy. Guards at the street kept the beggars out so it was quite fun. Gotta run we are delivering to the orphanage and they are waiting on me. Love you all.

Saturday, July 12, 2008

Let me clarify!

In response to Sopheap's blog....Okay first of all she was out on the sidewalk in her string bikini! In Cambodia the women never expose their shoulders or thighs. No tank tops or shorts. So doofus comes out (I told her take a towel) and stands behind Kaley and chats with the kids. I had my back to her. When I turned around there are tok toks everywhere and grown men giggling like school girls. Needless to say she was ordered back in the confinds of the pool (which is located behind a big cement wall) where she then was giggling like a little school girl!

Sunday, July 13th

Hey everyone, it's Sopheap. I haven't blogged yet, so I decided to real quick before my mother makes me go upstairs to change out of my swimsuit. This morning I woke up and we went down to the bar near the pool that we eat breakfast at every morning. The people working there have gotten good at remembering what I want for breakfast, since I order the same thing every morning (scrambled eggs and ham--the only thing I know is good). Every morning the people that work there point at me and whisper and smile. I understand they aren't being mean, they are just curious. They seem to enjoy when I come down because they like to talk to me and teach me new Khmer words. They laughed because pretty much the only thing I know how to say is "thank-you" in Khmer, but I'm pretty good at it might I add. This morning, they finally asked my mom about my background and why I was here. When they asked me how old I was, I told them I was eighteen and they were stunned. One of the guys around my age said "Awe, you so tiny!!!" And I replied, "Yep!" They are very friendly and I enjoyed talking to them.

After breakfast, my three sisters came with my uncle to the hotel for one last vist. We talked and asked questions, and they answered pretty straight forward. We didn't have much time since Yoen had to go. Once we were done visiting and giving them their gifts and money, we had to say our goodbyes. It was very hard and I started to cry, but only a little bit. My sisters couldn't help it, and they had tears streaming down their face. One of them grabbed my hand and pressed it against her heart. Then she squeezed me and kissed me all over. I went over to my deaf sister and pointed to her ears. I stroked them and said, "Beautiful!" I'm pretty sure she knew I was complimenting her and not making fun of her ears, because she smiled and nodded her head. I'm glad she knew I wasn't making fun of her. Once we were done saying goodbye, we left and waved to them as they got in their tok tok to travel back home. I'm sure they were wondering if we would ever meet again..

Lisa went out to lunch with a friend. Kaley, my mom, and I went outside to meet Lisa's friend's kids. I didn't want to come out since I was in my bathing suit, but I decided to real quick. I just hid behind Kaley the whole time. Even though I was hiding, apparently the tok tok drivers could still catch a peak. I noticed all the tok tok driver's jaws started to drop and they started smiling at me. It was really awkward so I mouthed to my mom "Can I please leave?" but she didn't hear me. Finally my mom noticed that a crowd might draw around Kaley and I and that I was hiding behind Kaley, so she let us go in. I was glad to be back in the hotel. Silly me..

Now I'm sitting here typing a blog before I have to get changed to go out to the market for a bit. I better go, so that's it for now! I miss you all! Hope you enjoyed hearing from me!

--Sopheap :)

PS Hi Fajaa! I love you!

So hard to say goodbye..

Toeun, Toeung and Soporn arrived safely this morning with uncle Nol. They took a bus to town and then a tok tok to a temple where we were supposed to meet. Yoen thought it would be okay to go back to the hotel. Most hotels have a rule that residents cannot come in but no one said anything. Also Yoen did not think it would be a good idea to give monetary gifts in public. Ande, we did bring all the baby clothes and they were very grateful. Thanks!
Upon arriving they were very proud to be wearing their new Khmer pants which we bought at the Trade School. As we entered the pool area of the hotel to visit I put my feet in the cool pool water I could not understand why they held back. I thought maybe they were self conscience about having dirty feet. Our translator, Yoen, told me that they have their feet in water all day in the rice patties and have no desire (duh?). Yoen could not stay so we could not visit long without our translator. Actually there isn't that much to talk about except to get family history. They work constantly and really have no life to discuss. Hilary's mom died immediately after giving birth to her. They said the baby was so tiny they did not know how to take care of her. In the rural villages there is no baby formula. They use condensed milk. After 6 weeks they did not feel they could adequately care for her and the grandmother took her to Pnom Penh orphanage. Hilary had a brother 14 who died of appendicitis and her father died when she was seven of diabetes.

Her sisters are so wonderful. A joy to be around. It was an awesome visit without the townspeople hovering and yammering. We were told that their uncle does indeed take very good care of them and their families. If we send money through him they will get it. I spoke to the uncle about getting Soporn some education so she could learn a trade. They were so surprised to know there is such a thing for a deaf/mute person and would like to take advantage of that. I have an appointment with that man who runs the trade school tomorrow and will see what kind of options there are. If it looks promising we will give him the uncle's number to contact.

It was so difficult when the girls left. They cried and cried. I knew if we didn't walk away they never would. It has easily been in the 90s here and very very humid. So let's just say there was lots of sticky hugging. They have gone back to the village and I have promised to keep in touch. We may set up a small bank account to have in case of emergencies for them. Cambodians have such a different sense of family here. Much much stronger than ours. So try as I might to help the girls, bottom line is that if there is money and the old folks need something they come first.

Hilary is online next to me chatting with her friends and I'm so glad she has that support system. (Hi John)

It's 10:30 am we are waiting for Lisa to come back. She bought a new refrigerator for the Nutrition Center and a ton (literally) of rice. If I have time I will try to update again before bed. I feel like I'm leaving "my girls" here. I love them with all my heart. Talk to you later.

Naked baby count is 40.5!

Last Trip to Svay Rieng

Today Hilary and I traveled back to Svay Rieng to visit her sisters. The trip should have been 2 1/2 hrs but was instead about 3 1/2. We got the ferry across the Mekong and were stuck in weekend traffic. The ferry platform it a very frightening place and I never want to be there again in my life. While you wait for the ferry (which if you want to go at all, you need to bribe the gate keeper) there are beggars everywhere. They ask for money or try to sell you things and press their dirty faces against you car window and tap on the glass. Some have naked infants in their arms that are limp and you wonder if they are even alive. Hilary was brought to tears it was so scary. We will never go back. The ferry is a haven for food vendors as their targets cannot get away. The snack of choice is fried baby birds? The whole picture is revolting especially in 90 degree heat. This is the ugly side of this country.

Before we left for the trip out we phoned her uncle to say we were coming but only wanted the sisters to be there. It was very overwhelming to have all these strangers talking to Hilary and her not knowing what they were saying. Her aunt was especially loud and obnxious. We arrived to a crowd of about 15. Only one sister had arrived and that's because she lives there. As we waited for the other two, more people were coming. When you get out in timbucktoo land a car and a foreigner are quite a site! After visiting with the sisters for a little while I could tell Hilary was getting anxious. I told them we wanted to go somewhere with just her sisters or we were leaving. They finally took us seriously. We packed the girls in the car and drove to Toeun's house. It was so nice to visit and not be interrupted. The girls are absolutely wonderful and so are her niece Leak and nephew Makara. Funny and sweet. Hilary could not ask for nicer sisters. They wanted nothing except to be with her.
We spoke to Toeun about possibly relocating but she wants to stay with her family. The land Yoen had in mind was very far from home and isolated. I've also learned that you cannot do for one family member and not another in Cambodia. If you give only to the daughter's they are expected to take care of their elders first. We stopped on the drive out and bought three bags of rice at $40 each to give the families. I was told by a missionary that when we arrive to not go there as a sugar daddy. Give them something to help. Ideally the thing to do would be to get them some kind of education so they can support themselves. However, there is absolutely nothing in this area for them. They would have to travel the 2 1/2 hrs. to Pnom Penh. Tomorrow we will give a money donation for them to use as needed (they know what they need) and we will be moving on. I don't understand the Cambodian way but I will respect it.
We had scheduled one last visit for tomorrow. I told them if they wanted to see us before we leave they would have to travel to Pnom Penh because I will not take the ferry anymore. EVER!!
I gave them some money for gas and they are coming on motorcycles in the morning to say goodbye. We are not leaving until Tuesday but Hilary has reached her limit with the extended family smothering her and asking for money. One aunt kept looking in her purse. Her little sister kept closing it an making Hilary keep it close. It is so clear how much these girls love their baby sisters. The oldest would have been about 10, the next about 6 and the youngest about 3 when Hilary was born.

Leann found her birth family yesterday. You can read the other blog on the site for those details.

This evening we went to a Khmer dance show and had a good time. We need to switch gears and show the girls the beautiful side on Cambodia.

Tomorrow we are going to shop after saying our goodbyes and just relax and do whatever Hilary needs to do to unwind.

I'm going to bed as I am completely exhausted. Have a great day. Love to all.

Friday, July 11, 2008

Another day of sight seeing..

Well last night was my first full night's sleep. I feel so much better. None of us are ever sure what day it is and it we usually have to ask someone to find out. How goofy is that?

Today we drove around on at Tok Tok had lunch then visited Central Market. Kaley got lost because she refused to go through the smelly food area. We were a little frantic trying to find her but she turned up. The beggar's were pretty annoying to the girls. Hilary actually go tough and told them "No" in a very stern voice (that's my girl) Once inside the guards would not let them enter and we were good. Lots of bargains on knock-off purses and beautiful fabrics.

After we left the market we drove by the Nutrition Center where Hilary spent the first two years of her life. The children were moved out about a month ago to go to the new orphanage and it is scheduled for demolition. The hotel next door bought the property. Upon arrival the hotel guards were hesitant to let us go through it. Once we explained why we wanted to see it they were only too happy to take us over. Hilary saw her room which she only knew through pictures. It will be demolished soon so we were luck to have seen it.

We are trying to arrange another visit with Hil's family tomorrow. It is really difficult to know we are so close and not together. They called Yoen yesterday because they were afraid we went back to Vietnam. We assured them we will visit again. The last visit will be with the sisters only. Hilary was overwhelmed by all the attention and would like the next visits to be more personal and low key. I forgot to mention that when we were leaving her family the other day we were stopped by an old woman walking our way. She is Hilary's grandmother's sister and was on her way to the reunion. We stopped the van and opened the door. The woman practically pulled her out of the van for a sweaty hug. Again Hilary handled it beautifully smiling the whole time. I am so proud of her! Looking back I'm not sure the crowd could have been avoided.

Being 3 hours away is a little tough because for each visit we need to arrange a translator/driver. Yoen, our usual driver, is busy with Leann's family but is going to try to set us up with someone for tomorrow's visit. We are definitely going on Sunday to see what kind of help we can work out for Toeun. She is the sister in the picture walking the field with Hilary. She is in desparate need of medical care as her baby is due next month. The little hut you see is where she, her husband and her mother-in-law live. The bucket they are looking in is dinner. A dirty bucket full of fish. I am going to try to get her a little bassinet before we go. We are still taking donations to help her so please consider this. Donations from here on out can be sent directly to me or Hilary.
Hilary's sister Sophorn is deaf. I am meeting with a missionary on Monday. He is the director of a school for handicapped people. There she can learn a trade and possibly be guided to be more independant. She currently is living with her uncle Lek Nol.

Hil seems to be really enjoying this trip. Of course meeting her sister's on the first day was stressful, but the country is sinking in and the she is enjoying learning words, using them and being called by her Khmer name Sopheap (pronounced So Pee Ip). Again please keep us and the Lek family in your prayers. Gotta run. Please click on the comments page to keep in touch as my email is not working.. Love you all..

Thursday, July 10, 2008

Another Full Day

Today we visited the Nutrition Center. This is a new orphanage in Pnom Penh. Quite nice actually.
After the Nutrition Center we visited a school for the children of the dump. Let me explain. There is an enormous dump in Pnom Penh. We were told not to go near it as the stench is intolerable. Keep in mind that this is garbage from an extremely poor country. There is absolutely nothing of value to be found. Nothing even recyleable. The organization that runs the school is called Give a Child a Smile. They bring these kids in from the dump (approximately 3000 at all three facilities). After they are finished scaveging in the morning, the kids shower and attend trade classes during the day. There is a lovely restaurant onsite. This is where we had lunch and were served by the teens learning restaurant management. They offer many trades including mechanics, masonry, cuisine, etc. They also have regular classes including gym and the children are fed several meals. At the end of the day the older children reunite with their families at the dump and the smaller children can sleep overnite. They have 60 orphan girls that live there permanently. It is an awesome program. We made a nice donation.

After leaving the school we visted the Killing Fields. It is a very somber place. The girls were shocked to see all of the sink holes in the ground from the mass graves.

To end on a lighter note. We took the girls to Fugi Film to have their pictures taken. They were taken upstairs where they could pick out a Cambodian Costume. The women did hair and makeup in typical Khmer fashion. It took 3 hours for each girl and they charged us $9 each. 8 x 10's will be ready in a few days. They will cost 25 cents each.

I'm not sure what tomorrow holds. I need to contact a missionary here He does alot of work with teaching handicapped people a trade. I will ask about getting Hilary's sister who is deaf into something if she is interested. Maybe I can talk him into taking us back out for another vist. They are two hours away. They called our driver today to see when we are coming back. I'll keep you all posted. Please keep us in your prayers as well as the people of Cambodia.

PS naked baby count is at 28.5 ! ( dont' ask)

Sisters Again!!

Here are a few pics for you to enjoy. It was a wonderful day. It took two hours to drive from the family's home to Pnom Penh. During those two hours I tried unsucessfully to find the words to describe the emotion of the day. It was undescribable. I tried to post the video but could not do it. I think at this point I should be thankful the pics uploaded. Please feel free to post feedback.

Wednesday, July 9, 2008

We've Arrived!


Hello Everyone! I’m so sorry I have not been in touch. Before I get going let me tell my super awesome husband happy 25th anniversary! I love you. Since arriving at our hotel late last night I have not been able to find a phone. One that works anyway. I will try today.
So far it has been a wild ride to say the least. Our flight from Hong Kong to Ho Chi Minh city (Just 2 hours) was uneventful except for our fine dining experience. While walking to our gate we noticed computers and internet service just outside of a restaurant. We were told that we could use it free as long as we made a purchase from the restaurant. Since we were starving that was fine with us. I ordered a peach pancake. What they brought was a cold crepe stuffed with cream cheese filling and peaches. Drizzled on top was chocolate syrup with lettuce and tomato on the side. I ate it. Hilary on the other hand ordered a turkey club. What she got was two pieces of whole wheat bread with a 3” round slice of turkey and a piece of cheese that looked like egg white. She passed. Once inside the airport we were relieved to see our luggage made it all the way through. Next we cleared customs without a hitch since we had nothing to declare. We exited the airport to find an enormous crowd waiting for passengers. It was a little intimidating but we took a deep breath and started through. We were immediately approached by a taxi driver who loaded us up and whisked us away to our hotel. By now it was 11 pm and the streets and traffic were in full swing. Apparently it’s every man for himself. Drivers and motorcyclists both drive with one foot on the gas and one thumb on the horn with no traffic lights and no particular lane direction. Hilary watched out the window in awe and disbelief. We arrived at the hotel safe and sound to find Lisa waiting in the lobby for us. That was a relief because I was a little worried there may be more than one Elios Hotel and we would be dropped at the wrong one. I have learned to expect the unexpected and have tried to anticipate every possible glitch.
The travel time from start to finish was about 30 hours. I managed to sleep for 1 hr Hilary had two or three. The hotel bed was a wonderful sight. We slept until about 6 and wasted no time heading to the breakfast buffet.

Yesterday we left Vietnam and traveled into Cambodia. Not as easy as it sounds! We had to go through a process to exit Vietnam which was not pretty. Lisa had mentioned that she felt as an American she felt very unwelcome during their few days there. This was more than apparent at Customs. There were several busloads of tourists waiting in no particular order to go through. After laying your passport on the counter for the clerk you had to wait for your stamp. We waited and waited and waited. The clerk took handfuls of passports, processed them and returned them as ours sat. We were told by one of the tour guides we needed to put some money in there to sweeten the pot. Our illustrious leader Lisa gave us a look as if to say “HELP!” we decided to wait them out since we were in this strange country and did not know the exact protocol. After and hour we were all through one by one. Going through into Cambodia was a piece of cake. They are so glad to see the children return. Each of the girls had their permanent visas added to their passports. They are all free to visit Cambodia now with no need of a visa.
While waiting to enter Cambodia our translator Yoen received a call from Hilary’s uncle. He wanted to let us know that he had the family together and they were anticipating her arrival. That was so exciting to be so close to something we’ve been thinking of for so long

Next stop was to visit Hilary’s family on the way to Pnom Penh. It took about two hours to get there. The mood was light as we dodged cows, dogs, chickens and pigs. The girls were counting naked babies (last count was 18). As we neared the village the excitement was growing. Debbie’s husband Mike volunteered to video the visit. Thanks Mike! Once in the village our translator Yoen could not remember exactly which road (goat path) was theirs. We called uncle Lek Nol and he came on his motorbike to take us to his house. He was smiling from ear to ear and straining to see Hilary in the car. His smile grew even bigger. In very short order we arrived to a crowd of about 30-40 curious faces all anticipating what was about to happen. I saw Hilary’s sister Toeun and my heart skipped a beat. We have known this family for 10 years through pictures and now they are standing in front of us. I was told that after surviving the Khmer Rouge invasion in the seventies people were conditioned never to show emotion and for us not to expect too much. WRONG!!! The girls all cried and could not believe their eyes. I have a small portion of video on my camera disc (Ande get the tissues) I will try to upload when I go to an internet café later today. It says more than I could ever try to convey. We visited for about two hours and had many questions which we were able to have answered through Yoen. It took awhile for everyone to stop crying. They were all touching Hilary as if in disbelief. My amazing daughter handled the whole situation beautifully. I was never more proud of her. She held hands with her sisters as they looked at each other in disbelief. After about 30 minutes it began to rain so we were all ushered under the overhang of their hut. To continue our visit. Because we had to catch the ferry over the Mekong we were on a schedule. Hilary’s sister Soporn is deaf and lives with her uncle. Her sister Touen is married and is expecting next month. The oldest sisters Toeung has two children and is now three months pregnant. Both sisters wanted us to see their houses (huts). So we walked through several rice patties to Toeung’s home first. She appears to be doing well as far as the norm for Cambodia. Her other sister Toeun is not faring as well. She explained to us that since her parents have died she had nothing and was married off and sent to live with the inlaws. This may sound cruel to us but arranged marriages are still the norm here. Her living situation is dire. She shares a small dilapidated hut with her husband’s family. While there her mother-in-law showed us a dirty bucket full of fish (looked like our version of minnows). No water in the bucket just a bunch of wiggly fish. She proceeded to lift up the bucket exposing another bucket full of wiggly catfish. This I suppose was going to be dinner. She is now 7 months pregnant and has no health care.
Yoen is the facilitator for the Grady Grossman School in Kompong Speu. He suggested to Toeung that we purchase a small patch of land for her and her husband ($1000). He would get her a nice job at the school and her children could attend school free. This is an excellent school and terrific opportunity. She seemed receptive to this as she knows and has told us there is no hope for her where she is now. We told her to discuss this with her family and we will revisit in a day or so. Our thoughts are not to hand her money but to have Yoen purchase the property in his name. She and her husband in turn would pay him a small montly fee. Just enough to make sure they know how to budget and manage a house. Other families have done things like this for birth families only to have them turn around and sell it off. My thoughts are that this would compensate Yoen for his time helping them and if in a year are two they are clearly doing well then we would release them from this agreement. Nothing in stone at this time just a lot of ideas floating around. We also will make arrangements for health care. So much to do.
We spoke to Toueng and explained that there is only so much aid available. Did she need anything or should we just focus on Toeun. She suggested to do what we can for her sister. We explained that in the future we may be able to help her more.

The youngest sister Sophorn is a deaf. She is a very sweet girl. We are looking into getting her some type of education for a trade. This is very common in Cambodia and I need to explore her options in the next day or so.

Today we are traveling to the orphanages to visit the nannies who cared for Sopheap (Hilary’s Cambodian name which we have been using). Next we will travel to the killing fields and back to the hotel. Later this evening we are taking the girls to have pictures taken. They will outfit them in Cambodian dress and do a Glamour Shot. How Cool!

Well breakfast calls. I miss everyone and will try my best to keep in touch.

Sunday, July 6, 2008

Ready Or Not We Leave Tomorrow!

Hello everyone,
Well tomorrow we take off! While we are not so thrilled about 30 hours of travel, we will be glad to get there and hook up with the girls! Who by the way seem to having a grand '0l time.

Funny thing happened over the weekend. Hilary met a boy adopted from Cambodia at a picnic. Turns out his mom was in Lisa's group of 5 families who traveled in 1991. I met him and his parents once. When the kids had been home for a few months we got them all together for a photo. He was in it. Hilary thought that was weird that she spent a day with him over 10 years ago. I hope they are better at keeping in touch than we have been.

Everything is packed. It's amazing how many times I've said "I wonder if that will fit?" Sure enough it's in there and the suitcase has not exploded! Our plane to San Francisco leaves at 9:20 tomorrow morning. Should be about 5 hrs and 14 mins. We have a 1:12 Flight to Ho Chi Minh City which will be 16 hrs and 18 mins. I think we stop in Hong Kong and can get off and stretch a bit. That layover is only and hour or two. So I'm not sure when we will be in touch next but I will do my best. Take care and keep us in your prayers!

Friday, July 4, 2008

So much to pack...So little space...

Let me begin by giving you a little synopsis of what we are doing. As you know Hilary was adopted from Cambodia in 1992 at the age of two. When she was about 7 one of the fellows who helped us with the paperwork on the Cambodian side called me. He was heading back to Cambodia (he is American) "would we like him to see what he could find out about Hilary's birth family?" I sent him the only thing I had which was an approximate birthdate and the name of the woman who brought her to the Nutrition Center. In Cambodia they do not celebrate birthdays the same way we do. Everyone turns a year older on the first of the year so the actual date is not as important.

He did what he could until it was time for him to return to the states but had no success. To make a very long story short, the information was passed from one person to the next until the family was found through a midwife. I wish I knew who all these people were to thank them. I remember telling Jeff that someone over there needs to know she is okay. I didn't know why I had such a need to make contact with them. When we found them we were told that her father was dying and it gave him much peace to know where she was and that she was okay.

At the time we discovered them she had three sisters, all older. Her parents now deceased, the girls were living with their grandparents. She also had a brother who passed away. We were able to send letters, pictures and care packages thru NGO contacts. Always grateful for the gifts they in turn sent us pictures and letters. Several years ago we lost communication with our contact. Unfortunately we had not heard from them for quite sometime. Since that time both grandparents have passed away.

In April Lisa wrote me a letter letting me know that she was going back for yet a third visit and would we like to go. DUH??? We got Hilary a passport as well as visas for both of us and promtly scarfed up all of Jeff's frequent flyer miles (thanks dad we love your guts) for airfare.

After contacting Lisa's friend/guide in Pnom Penh we were able to let the family know that we will be visiting. He drove out to the countryside and gave them the news. Of course they were all very excited. During the visit he took some pictures for us. To our suprise they are women now with children. Hilary has a niece and nephew and one on the way! My how time flies!

Hilary is excited but nervous. I try to imagine what this must be like for her, but I'm not sure that I can. She seems very relaxed about the whole thing. She obviously does not remember them but I'm sure they remember the little infant sister who was taken away to the orphangage never to be seen again. I think we will have to take it one step at a time. The positive thing for everyone is that we have met through letters and pictures. We feel as though we already know them. We know their living situation, their faces and a little history.

It's now the fourth of July. Two more days until we leave. I am home by myself for the day. Hilary left to spend the day with her boyfriend John. Jeff is umpiring and Nate is working. Laundry calls! We are pretty well packed. We are each taking two suitcases. One carryon with the things we can't lose. The other bags have gifts for Hilary's family. Nothing expensive so if indeed they get lost it won't be the end of the world.

Yesterday Hilary copied most of the pictures from her childhood and put together a nice little photo album to give her family. Several years ago we received pictures of her parents. I am going to put them in lockets. One for each sister.

Thanks to the generosity of friends, family and total strangers we have raised over $4000! This will make such an impact. We hope to be able to help the orphanages as well as Hilary and Leanne's birth families. All donations go to make a difference in the lives of those we meet while traveling in Cambodia. I have made contact with a Missionary in Pnom Penh. He has a large program to help Cambodian families learn a trade so that they can support themselves and possibly start some type of business. I am hoping this is something Hilary's family may be interested in. I have no idea what the girls' husbands do for a living so we will have to see. One sister is expecting in August and I'm sure she could use help with her healthcare. A second sister is deaf and has not attended school. Perhaps this program is something that could help her. Lastly, her older sister has two children and will have her own unique needs. Again one day at a time.
Thank you again for your thoughts, contributions and prayers. I hope to keep everyone updated through this site. Please pray for us. Love you.